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A Perfect Day in Firenze
Posted October 22, 2007
Every time I go to Tuscany, whether is for surfing on the coast of Viareggio, visiting the amazing monuments and churches of Florence or indulging in local wines and cheeses in the Chianti region, I find myself not wanting to leave.
Like the main character of "Under The Tuscan Sun" (and any thousands of real-life people before and after her), I gaze at the gently rolling hills, the decadent magnificence of an old farmhouse, and the succulent food on the table, and I have to admit that I always would like to stay longer.
Tuscany is a region so rich in culture and architecture, so various in cuisine and dialects, and so proud of its traditions it feels like a world of its own. Miles away from the pragmatism of Milano or the chaos of Rome, it’s where modern Italy, the Italian language as we know it today, our most famous dishes and many important men of science, art and literature have all come from.
Back in the 14th century, Firenze (Italian for Florence) is where the Renaissance started, and to this day one can admire the signs of its past glory. Nearby, Siena, smaller and quaint, is the quintessential medieval town with narrow streets and stone towers. The soft, green and yellow hills of the Chianti region are a monument to good hearty food and great wines.
Firenze is probably the most famous and tourist crowded city in Tuscany. Behind every corner, in every piazza, imposing statues and gargantuan churches will take your breath away as you take a stroll in the elegant streets of the town center.
By far one of the most imposing structures, the city Duomo is a beautiful white, pink and green marble building. From its top it offers a bird's-eye view of the whole city. Climbing the 476 steps that lead you to the top of the dome is definitely not for the faint of heart (nor for anyone who suffers from claustrophobia), but once you catch your breath the view is so amazing you’ll be glad you spent the last twenty minutes huffing and puffing up the narrow staircases. On a clear day not only you can admire the red roofs of Firenze, the other churches bell towers and the river Arno, you can also gaze at the hills on the horizon and enjoy the magnificent hues of green and yellow of an early fall day.
A short walk from the Duomo, down fancy shopping mecca Via dei Calzaiuoli, is Piazza della Signoria, one of Firenze's most beautiful squares. The all brick Palazzo Vecchio, once the headquarters of Florentine government, is now home to a museum and to the office of the Mayor of Firenze. Almost hidden behind the Palazzo is one of the world’s most famous art galleries: the Uffizi. An art buff’s heaven, this amazing gallery displays works from artists like Michelangelo, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Giotto and many others, and is so extensive one cannot visit all of its many rooms in just one day.
The first secret to a painless, enjoyable visit to the Uffizi is to buy the tickets online, a trick that will make you skip the two hour line at the entrance, and the second one is, once inside, to take a look at the gallery map and pick four or five rooms (they are huge!) you really want to visit and ignore the rest.
Once you have worked up a good appetite, the best dining options in Firenze are cheap, often family-run trattorias where you can savor real Florentine fare at more than affordable prices.
Of the traditional dishes that you have to try in Tuscany, my favorite is pappa al pomodoro, a peasant soup made with fresh, fragrant tomatoes, old bread, garlic, locally produced EVOO and basil leaves. For bigger appetites, the ravioli strascicati are a great option: ravioli filled with potatoes are served with meat sauce and a splash of cream, a real delight for anyone who loves both pasta and meat.
But the real star of every Florentine meal is the bistecca alla Fiorentina, a humongous steak you can’t get anywhere else. Made with locally grown Chianina beef, this giant bone-in piece of steak is first grilled and then sliced, ideal for at least two people, and served only rare. If you don’t like rare meat, don’t order it. Not only they will refuse to overcook it, they will also be personally offended by the suggestion. Enjoy this flavorful, tender steak with roasted potatoes and a few glasses of house red wine: at seven euros per liter, it's not only a bargain, but usually very good and round.
To end your day with a touch of romance, take a stroll on the banks of the Arno: the lights reflecting in the river’s calm waters make this incredible city look even more appealing whether you are a novice or a veteran to Firenze’s ageless charm.
Where will I be next?

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