I never met a cow I didn’t like. Throughout my home I have a number of cows — not the real thing, of course — but artwork that adds humor and warmth to my environment. There is something mysterious, sensual and appealing about a bovine beauty that is hard to resist.

No wonder I was delighted with the simple and charming farmhouse I rented in the Berkshire Mountains this summer. The pastures surrounding the house were occupied by my closest neighbors, a herd of handsome heifers. There were two species in the herd; aristocrats in the bovine world. Most impressive were the Belted Galways, fine specimens with white bodies banded by a wide black girdle. They shared the emerald pasture with the equally aristocratic Charolais, France’s contribution to the cattle world.

For hours I would sit in lazy comfort on the porch overlooking the pasture and, when not absorbed in a book, would look across at my magnificent neighbors. There seemed to camaraderie as they grazed, napped in the shade and late in the afternoon, in unison, lined up on their way to the barn.

A friend’s young daughter asked me what I enjoyed most about the Berkshires. Without hesitation I gave credit to my pasture pets, and Lucy, my dog, agreed. She spent hours within feet of the pasture’s fence. The cows would gather and attempt to make contact, but Lucy was much too cautious. She occasionally would bark and the closest she came to the beasts was rolling in cow dung.

Little thought or credit is given to the cow. This member of the Bos primigenius family contributes much to the comfort and survival of mankind. Can you imagine a cowless world? We have come to depend on the cow for milk and other dairy products, beef for the millions of carnivores, hide for shoes and other leather goods, their use in medicines, as draft animals. Even their dung is used for manure and for fuel.

Little wonder that the cow is a sacred animal in India, although many question the presence of some 208 million beasts roaming the cities and countryside. The ox (castrated cows) is one of the 12-year cycle of animals which appear in the Chinese zodiac, while the Maasai tribe in Africa believes that all cows on earth are their God-given property.

Humans, not satisfied to use the cow for food and clothing, also put the bulls in mortal danger by virtue of bullfights and rodeos. For almost 300 years the English engaged in bullbaiting, in which savage dogs attacked shackled cattle. Finally, in the 18th century the sport was banned. Bulls have been used as sacrificial animals, and an offshoot of this is the bullfight, still practiced in Spain, Portugal, Mexico and other Central and South American countries.

On the island of Crete there are numerous paintings and other artifacts honoring the half-bull Minotaur. Historical relics indicate that the Minoans conducted ceremonies whereupon bulls were literally eaten alive by frenzied worshipers.

Bull sacrifice was also practiced by the Greeks, Romans and Druids. However, their bovine cousins in Egypt earned more respect. Apis was the sacred bull-god who was mysteriously born and reborn in a series of black bull calves with a cow harem. Here the treasured beast had a cow harem and was allowed to die of old age.

No need to dwell on this cow minutia, especially if you are an enthusiastic beef eater. To further celebrate the cow, the oxen, the bull and their contributions to the culinary world, here is my very favorite beef steak recipe. It was originated by comedian Marty Allen. He won a cooking contest sponsored by the March of Dimes. While you’re enjoying the meat you can feel healthy with a generous helping of veggies.

STEAK MARTY

Ingredients

2 zucchini

1 onion

2 tablespoons butter

½ cup finely chopped celery

2 or 3 cloves of finely chopped garlic

1 cup chopped tomatoes

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs

4 thin, boneless shell steaks, about ½ pound each

Spinach pancakes (recipe below)

Preparation

* Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut into ¼-inch-thick rounds; this should yield about 3 cups.

* Peel the onion, then split it crosswise in half. Cut each half into ¼-inch-thck slices, about 1½ cups.

* Melt the butter and add onion and celery. Cook, stirring, until the onion is wilted. Add zucchini and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the cheese and bread crumbs. Stir and remove from heat.

* Grill the steaks over charcoal or cook them until golden brown on both sides in butter to desired degree of doneness. Place the zucchini mixture on top and serve the spinach pancakes on the side.

SPINACH PANCAKES

Ingredients

2 packages frozen creamed spinach, defrosted

6 tablespoons finely grated onion

5 tablespoons bread crumbs

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

½ cup peanut, vegetable or corn oil (approximately)

Preparation

* Place the defrosted creamed spinach in a saucepan and add the onion. Heat thoroughly. Sprinkle bread crumbs, add the eggs, salt and pepper to taste and blend well.

* Heat about 2 tablespoons of oil at a time in a skillet. Add 2 or 3 tablespoons of the pancake mixture. Cook 4 to 6 pancakes at a time, turning once. Cook until golden brown on one side, turn and cook until gold brown on the other.

* Drain on paper towels to remove any grease. Makes 12 to 24 pancakes, depending on size.

* * *

ASK DORIS

Question: Recently I purchased an exotic-looking fruit which the vendor called Dragon’s Eye. Before I eat it I would like to know more about this fruit. Is it eaten raw or cooked and is it grown locally? — Richard Tooke / Naples

Answer: Dragon’s Eye is more commonly known as longan fruit and it is grown locally, but not in great profusion. It is a native of Southeast Asia and is most commonly grown in China and India. It is closely related to the lychee and comes from a large, majestic shade tree overhung with dark evergreen leaves.

The soft meat is much like a peeled grape and has a sweet taste with an after taste that hints of gardenia, spruce and musk. Mostly eaten raw, it freezes well and may be poached in simple syrup for a unique dessert. I hope you enjoyed this exotic treat.

Doris Reynolds is the author of “Let’s Talk Food” and “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet Was Fried.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Also available is a 4-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds.” For comments and questions regarding today’s column, contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr25@aol.com