Let's Talk Food: Presidents’ tastes make White House kitchen a polyglot of styles
Presidents Day has come and gone and surely the memory of George and Abe lingers on. I celebrated their birthdays by imagining what they would eat should they be invited to a birthday celebration. After all, our presidents are much revered and their culinary preferences are to be emulated by one and all. It turns out that few were gourmands but all enjoyed eating and a few turned up in the White House kitchens turning out their favorites.
Franklin Roosevelt’s favorite dish was moose meat served with a generous dollop of grape jelly. Loyal supporters kept the White House supplied with game and since there was wartime rationing and a serious economic depression, it was not a time of lavish dining and entertaining.
FDR also preferred fish and a favorite recipe was for kedgeree, a simple dish of flaked whitefish and cream. Eleanor Roosevelt liked simple foods; scrambled eggs were high on her list, but she was highly disciplined and consumed three chocolate- covered garlic balls every day to improve her memory. Other presidential favorites included crab soup, boiled salmon with egg sauce and pecan pie.
Probably the most publicized presidential feast was during Roosevelt’s term when he and Eleanor entertained the King and Queen of England with a wienie roast.
George Washington’s taste in food was deeply ingrained in his English ancestry. He was a meat and potatoes man who preferred traditional dishes such as beefsteak and kidney pie, and a rich trifle was his favored dessert.
He and wife Martha entertained frequently at Mount Vernon. Receptions were held every Tuesday and Martha Washington served a bountiful buffet.
Dinner at Mount Vernon was served at 3 o’clock with three courses; each consisting of up to 20 dishes each. In those days, it was considered improper to serve at a table where the tablecloth could be seen so the table was filled with appetizing dishes and condiments.
Dwight D. Eisenhower was one of the few presidents who ventured into the White House kitchen and cooked for friends and family. He especially liked to grill and barbecue, and while he was engaged at his culinary chores, Mamie played the organ and guests would sing along. These informal gatherings included a Halloween luncheon when witches, pumpkins, ghosts and black cats occupied much of the White House. Ike’s famous beef stew was the main course and the president’s favorite sweet, Mamie’s Million Dollar Fudge, was passed among the guests.
If ever we had a Renaissance man in the White House, it was Thomas Jefferson. He was not a vegetarian but ate very little meat. He had his own garden and when time permitted he supervised and worked there to relieve the tensions of being president. He preferred small, intimate dinner parties at round tables so everyone took part in heated conversations.
When in Paris as the minister to France he collected recipes and introduced many dishes to the American diet. He brought the first pasta machine to the states and believed that fine olive oil and wine were essential to successful gastronomy.
Presidential recipes tend to be simple and uncomplicated, unlike our leaders who were complex but nonetheless human and in need of spiritual, as well as an appetite for sustenance and nourishment.
Thomas Jefferson’s veal in paper
Ingredients
2 pounds veal, cubed
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ cup butter
1 pound mushrooms
½ cup bread crumbs
6 to 12 squares parchment paper
Preparation
* Trim fat and gristle from veal. Put in a bowl with salt, pepper and thyme. Mix well and cover. Refrigerate 1 hour.
* Wash and slice mushrooms and place in a bowl. Melt butter and pour over mushrooms and breadcrumbs. Mix with veal.
* Place six equal amounts in the center of each square of parchment paper. Gather up edges and twist together at top. Secure with kitchen twine.
* Place on cookie sheet and bake in a 375 degree, preheated oven for 45 minutes.
* Place on individual place and allow guest to open packets themselves. Serves 6.
Mamie’s million dollar fudge
I have used this recipe numerous times without a single failure. Little wonder Ike gave it such a promising name.
Ingredients
12 ounces semisweet chocolate bits
12 ounces German sweet chocolate, broken into bits
1 pint marshmallow cream
Pinch of salt
1 can (13 ounces) evaporated milk
4½ cups sugar
2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
2 tablespoons butter
Preparation
* In a large bowl, combine both types of chocolate, marshmallow cream and salt.
* Put milk and sugar in a large, heavy pot. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook, stirring continuously for 6 to 8 minutes.
* Pour the milk mixture over the chocolate. Add nuts and butter and beat until the chocolate is melted and the fudge is creamy.
* Pour into a buttered 9-by 9-inch pan and allow to cool at room temperature for a few hours before cutting into squares. Store in an airtight container. Makes about 5 pounds of fudge.
President Kennedy’s favorite fish chowder
Ingredients
2 pounds haddock, grouper or any other white fish
2 ounces salt pork, diced
2 onions, sliced
4 large potatoes, diced
1 cup chopped celery
1 bay leaf, crumbled
1 quart whole milk
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Preparation
* Place fish in a large pot and add 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Drain off the liquid, reserving it for later. Remove bones from fish and discard.
* Sauté salt pork until crisp and set aside. Add onion to pot and sauté until golden brown.
* Add fish, potatoes, celery, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Pour in fish broth and add enough water to make three cups of liquid. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered for 30 minutes.
* Add milk and butter and simmer 5 minutes. Serve chowder sprinkled with diced pork. Serves 6.
ASK DORIS
Question: Last summer I visited a friend in England and while there she fixed the most wonderful soup made with Stilton cheese. I have a pound of Stilton and would like to make this soup but have no recipe. I hope you can help. — Melissa Kennedy / Estero
Answer: This soup sounds like a real winner. I found the recipe in a cookbook put out by Gourmet magazine.
Stilton cheese soup
Ingredients
1½ cups finely chopped celery
1 large sweet onion, chopped fine
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 russet baking potatoes
3 cups chicken broth
1 cup water
1½ cups half-and-half
8 ounces (½ pound) Stilton cheese, crumbled
4 tablespoons dry sherry or to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
5 tablespoons toasted hazelnuts for garnish
Preparation
* In a large saucepan cook celery, onion and garlic with bay leaf and thyme in butter over moderate heat, stirring until vegetables are softened and transparent.
* Peel potatoes and slice thin. Add potatoes to vegetables with broth and water and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes or until potatoes are very tender.
* Discard the bay leaf and purée the soup in a blender or food processor. Transfer the purée to a cleaned pan and stir in half-and-half. Heat the soup over low heat, whisking, add Stilton, whisking until cheese is melted and soup is smooth.
* Whisk in the sherry and salt and pepper to taste. Do not allow the soup to boil.
* Serve soup garnished with hazelnuts. Makes about 8 cups of soup.
Doris Reynolds is the author of “When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet Was Fried” and “Let’s Talk Food.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Also available is a 4-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds.” For information and comments regarding today’s column, contact Doris Reynolds at foodlvr25@aol.com

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